Author(s): Ben Marcus
The surfboard is both a piece of sports equipment and a work of art. It is a marvel of engineering and for some, a path to fame and celebrity. It exudes both power and grace; it allows its rider to soar through the air or penetrate the watery depths. Centuries ago, early Polynesians considered the surfboard a religious icon, a means of worshipping the ocean. Today it is a cultural icon, a means of worshipping not simply the ocean but also those who seek to master its powerful and unpredictable forces. In 365 Surfboards, surfing expert and writer Ben Marcus brings together the most important, most interesting, and most innovative surfboards the world has ever known. From 12-foot-long koa boards of ancient Hawai'i to state-of-the-art modern boards utilizing streamlined design for maximum speed and maneuverability, the surfboard has undergone numerous revolutions and advancements through the years. Pioneering riders and shapers-from Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake, to Greg Noll and Hobie Alter, to Kelly Slater and Al Merrick-have brought their own personal touches and insights to continually refine and redefine the ultimate tool for riding the waves. Each of the 365 boards featured here are presented through colour images and in-depth descriptions to offer a compelling and comprehensive history of the surfboard and the people, moments, and innovations that have revolutionized the sport.
BEN MARCUS (Malibu, CA) is a surfer from childhood. He was associate editor at Surfer magazine for a decade and still writes for Surfer, The Surfer's Journal, and numerous other magazines. He is the author of The Surfboard, Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time, The Surfing Handbook, and Surfing & the Meaning of Life, among others.